If there was a bad decision to make, I made it. One monumental mistake followed the next. I fucked everything up. It was a continuous attempt to be someone I was not. I was not happy with the person I was becoming. So, at the age of forty-something, I made a conscious decision to spend the second half of my life enjoying the person I became, whatever that may be.
The first, and most important, decision I made was marrying the person I would spend the second half of my life with. I didn’t think it possible, but she liked to travel even more than me, and she actually liked me too. No one has ever made me happier. The wedding was February 8, 2014.
With yet another blizzard barreling towards the east coast, we opted to get out of town early. A couple of phone calls, and a few hundred dollars later, we were on our way.
An odd thing about traveling to Australia is crossing the International Dateline. Valentine’s Day, 2014, came and went in the air, without actually existing for us at all. We landed on the 15th, in Sydney.
It’s a long flight from Los Angeles; 15 hours in the air. Imagine watching three full movies, and then looking at the time only to realize you have ten more hours to go. It’s no wonder you hear the occasional story of a traveler going bonkers. And all the sleeping pills in the world couldn’t knock me out, believe me, I tried.
I had done tons of research on Australia, and countless hours of planning for this trip, and one of the most rudimentary facts I learned is Aussies drive on the other side of the road Down-Under. “Watch out for cars”, I read and was told over and over again. Despite all that knowledge, my first act coming out of the airport was nearly getting wiped out by a cab because I was looking the wrong way. My second act was getting into the driver’s seat of the cab that was to take us to our hotel. The driver’s seat is on the other side too. Man, I was shot.
Arriving in the southern hemisphere in February, the middle of summer, was an exhilarating breathe of fresh air. Off we went to the Shangri-La hotel, with 2 full suitcases in tow, along with 2 overstuffed carry-ons, Gail’s pocket book, my backpack, and a bag full of leftover snacks from the plane. There was a lesson to be learned about packing for a long trip.
The Shangri-La is a Chinese-owned luxury hotel located half a block from the Sydney Harbor. It’s a beautiful hotel with amazing city views all around. The beds are wonderful, I slept 8 straight hours for the first time in months. Then we went exploring.
We had one full day to take in as much of Sydney as we could. We were coming back soon to spend a few more days, so this was like a reconnaissance mission. We strolled all of Darling Harbor, stopping to window shop, look at menus, people watch, and take in the sights. Then over to the Botanical Gardens, which led us to the famed Sydney Opera House.
For the last three years, every place we went, and every opportunity I had, I asked Gail for her hand in marriage. I asked her long after she said yes, I just wanted to make sure. We made our way up the steps of the Opera House. I thought it was a bit smaller and greyer than I saw in photos. With countless, mostly Asian, tourists, on the steps, I asked Gail once again for her hand. But this time was different. This was for a dance.
On the steps of the Sydney Opera House, with only the music in our hearts, we performed our wedding dance. We received a round of applause and off we went.
The next day we were at the airport on our way up to Far North Queensland. As we were checking in our trailer load of luggage, the girl at the check-in counter told us our suitcases were too heavy. How could that be? They weren’t too heavy at JFK or LAX, and we hadn’t even opened them yet. So here we are, experienced travelers, loudmouthed New Yorkers, throwing items from our suitcases to our already overstuffed carry ons. Yes, we were those people. Ugh.
Thala Beach Nature Reserve is located in Port Douglas, about an hour drive north of Cairns. After driving along the scenic Captain Cook Highway, you go to where the Daintree Rainforest meets the Coral Sea. This was the part of the trip I was looking forward to the most. The reviews were outstanding and the photos even better. Billed as a 5 Star eco-resort in a tropical setting, we were booked in a private Eucalypt Bungalow.
Shortly after arriving, sitting in the open air lobby, enjoying my welcome drink, something in the corner caught my eye. The most perfectly formed, yellow hued, spider web in an open wall. It was so perfect I thought it was fake at first. And there in the center was the largest spider I’ve ever seen. Not just any spider, a Golden Orb Spider. This bad boy was humongous, it’s legs stretched out nearly as wide as a Frisbee. It is also referred to as the Bird Killer. Now I really felt like I was in Australia. Get me another drink!
The rest of the day we strolled the property, taking in the sights of the beach, the Coral Sea, and the Rainforest. While there were so many good and beautiful points to this resort, there were, unfortunately, quite a few negatives. My Tripadvisor review can be found here: Thala. It’s the old classic, If I only knew then what I know now.
Port Douglas is an easy twenty minute drive from Thala, and where we would go for the better part of the next three days. Our first day in town we visited the Artists and Farmer’s Market. Made up mostly of ad-hoc canvas tents, the vendors were friendly and seemed to be excited to meet some Americans.
We made our way into the town center where we did some more window shopping. There was some bar hopping mixed in too. The local beers were great and I tried one at more than a couple different places. We found ourselves at Salsa Restaurant, allegedly a favorite stopping point for Bill Clinton.
A bucket list item was checked off the next day. In the Port Douglas harbor, we boarded the Synergy II. This small, well equipped, catamaran was our personal transportation out to The Great Barrier Reef. Manned by 3 Aussies and a pretty American backpacker, only ourselves and a young couple from Spain were on board.
Off we went to see the largest and greatest coral reef in the world. Breathtakingly beautiful, I snorkeled for hours over and within the most amazing coral. Amongst the countless and indescribable shapes and colors under the sea, were creatures of all variety. I can only describe it as swimming in a giant fish tank. I saw everything from giant, and I mean GIANT, clams, electric blue starfish, lazy sea turtles, and the elusive and popular Nemo fish.
The sight of a few black tipped reef sharks coincided with a barbecue lunch on board. We moved further up, towards Batt Reef. This is where the late, great Steve Irwin had his infamous encounter with the stingray. There were none to be seen that day, though we did look, as it was the last excursion into the water. Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef, an adventure I’ll remember forever.
Just as memorable, was the trip back to shore. As luck would have it, one of the two engines seized out along the way. After an extra, unanticipated, but enjoyable, 2 hours of sailing it was time to get onto the dock. But without the motor we couldn’t get into the slip. It was time for Plan B. Seeing Gail, who doesn’t swim in open water (she stayed topside while I snorkeled), balanced on the edge of a pontoon on a little rubber raft was hysterical and priceless.
The following morning was Breakfast with the Birds and a day at The Port Douglas Wildlife Refuge. In a huge enclosure we shared our bacon, eggs, and fruit with nearly as many birds as we saw fish the day before.
A magnificent refuge, we spent all day with the wildlife.
We did so much over the last few days. From sleeping in a bungalow in the rainforest, to swimming with sharks in the Great Barrier Reef, to hopping around with wallabies, to cuddling Koalas, we were ready for our next great adventure. Tomorrow we go back to Sydney to check a few more things off the bucket list. The first stop will be the Four Seasons, not bad for a fuck up.
Stay tuned for The Honeymoon, Part II.